Видео

I've seen ppl report this when their frb is inverted somewhere in game or Logitech software

@@BallisticTechthank you! where can I invert that is the fh5 settings do you know that.

@@BallisticTech nvm I found it it works!

It should not when using the correct hotend mount. The Dragon and Dragon HF have the same height as a V6 which is kinda the standard. The UHF (Ultra High Flow) variants are longer like a V6 volcano.

@@BallisticTech great to know, I am about to get a kit and I was kinda worried about it. Have a good day.

I just bought a Formbot kit a few days ago (shame I didn't see your video first). Thanks for helping me mentally prepare for all the minor challenges.

The Kirigami bed frame is a solid piece of sheet metal that is bent into the form shown in the video. There are 3d printed pieces to attach certain parts and accessories to it

Yes they had mostly CNC parts from Chaotic labs for a 2.4. But also beds and other little bundles.

Thanks for watching and commenting. I definitely put a lot of time into the video. Great to hear folks appreciate it!

Thanks for watching and commenting!

They're called LazyCams on printables. I'll try and remember to add links for mods!

Oh there's a link to the lazy cams in the Description already

Sweet thanks

Thanks! Should be fun to find a way to use it of something interesting

Hey truggy. Yeah the parts looks pretty good. I can make a post with more detailed photos

Not a bad idea!

Thanks for watching and commenting!

Without any modding or having anything go wrong I think it's possible to built the entire printer without having to crimp anything but I'm not sure about stripping wires If you follow how I did the heated bed for instance it requires cutting/stripping and using wagos to allow pulling the bed out. But you could technically build the bed without doing this. At the very least you can probably get quite far into building the printer before needing to do so. And evaluate if you think it would be worth it. Borrowing strippers/crimpers from a friend or going to a maker space to use some are always an option. They're highly recommended by the voron team as maintenance, upgrades/mods and subsequent builds will likely require them. Fans for instance aren't exactly a consumable with these printers but often go out on them. Buying a replacement likely won't be a 1:1 swap in.

@@BallisticTech Got it that makes sense, I may have a stripping tool laying around somewhere but I was looking at the recommended crimping tools and saw that they were around 40 dollars which seemed a little steep to me haha. Are the wagos the intended method of wiring the bed? it seems odd that they wouldn't be included in the kit if that was the case. None the less which type of wago do I need to purchase?

@@rp101aquatics6 That's a bit of a weird thing with Voron Kits and DIY Printer Kits in general. There's the Voron "Spec". What their BoM says and what's in the manual. Then there's what the kit includes. Kirigami is a super popular mod so many kits have started including them to different degrees. Formbot only includes the frame. Other kits include the wagos, LEDs, etc... Then there's what an individual builder decides to build. That's based on experience, available tools/materials and really just preference a lot of time. 10 Builders with the same kit you're probably gonna see 5-10 small variations in the bed wiring. That's compounded a bit because Formbot has no "Spec" or instructions for this kit. Voron Spec is the multiple extrusion bed. No connectors for the wiring. They just pass everything straight thru to the . Technically Formbot's "Spec" based on what they give you is Kirigami Frame + pass thru wiring.

@@BallisticTech Is there a good/safe way to wire the bed with out wagos? I'm leaning towards getting them anyways at this point but I'd have to watch a few build guides and see how the kit is put together for the most part

@@rp101aquatics6 Newer kits have the thermistor integrated so that removes the need for one connection. Besides that you can choose to just leave the bed tethered. Or use any connections rated for the Wattage. I believe it's 24V and 60W so a 3-4 Amps of current. Inline JSTs, microfit, car style inline spade connectors. I initially used an extra spade connector but then changed to using an extra wago. I show the whole build process in my streams. I have a lot of resources on my Github repo for the printer including links to wago connectors

Thanks for watching and commenting! Yes I put in a Nevermore V6 and a few other mods not shown in the review. Maybe I should do an update/overview video...?

Thanks for watching and commenting Michael. Formbot has made a few changes to this kit since the review The heated bed now includes an integrated thermal fuse which makes the wiring a little more simple

@@BallisticTechGood to know - I just ordered my kit! Time to start printing :)

I've seen some folks noting that they've had success with that hotend. Seems like a good inexpensive option for DIY printers

What does that mean?